The Wonders of Bergamot

Botanical name	Citrus bergamia
Plant part	Peel of the green bergamot orange
Origin	Calabria, southern Italy
Extraction	Cold-pressed from the peel
Note	Top
Scent family	Citrus & Fresh
Odour	Sparkling citrus with a floral, softly peppery and Earl Grey tea-like edge
Perfume uses	Colognes, chypres, fougères and fresh openings; lifts florals and woods
Key molecules	Limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool
Odour impact	Medium
Odour life on a strip	Short: a few hours
Found in	Berry Blitz, Jacinth Jonquil, Lantern Reed, Lissom Linden, Oud Octavo, Rose Rondeaux

Bergamot is used within IFRA limits for bergapten. Impact and odour life are our own studio guide, judged on a smelling strip.

Bergamot Scent Facets

How strongly each facet of bergamot comes through, from our own smelling-strip notes.

Bergamot in history

Bergamot also known as Citrus bergamia, the aromatic gem originating from the sun-kissed fields of Southern Italy, boasts a history as rich and captivating as its citrusy fragrance. Its journey through time is a tapestry woven with threads of cultural significance, luxury, and folklore.

During the Renaissance, Citrus bergamia graced the courts of European nobility, adorning perfumes and pomades. Its exquisite aroma, a harmonious blend of citrus, sweetness, and spice, became synonymous with refinement and opulence. This historical role is encapsulated in a quote by the renowned perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena: “Bergamot is the prince of hesperidia. It is the fine wine of citrus fragrance; it is fresh, delicate, and refined.”

The 19th century saw bergamot take center stage in the iconic Earl Grey tea, a blend that transcended its origins to become a symbol of sophistication. Charles Grey, the British Prime Minister, lent his name to this infusion of bergamot with black tea. The historical significance is beautifully encapsulated in a quote by author Robert Fortune: “The tea-flavoring called ‘Bergamot’ is obtained from the rind of the fruit of the Citrus Bergamia, a native of the West Indies, but which is cultivated with success in various parts of Italy.”

Beyond its aromatic allure, bergamot found its way into traditional remedies and apothecaries, where it was prized for its uplifting scent. Aromatherapists still describe it in emotional terms (Valerie Ann Worwood called it “the oil of self-love”), though these are traditional views rather than proven effects.

Today, bergamot’s historical legacy resonates in the world of perfumery, gastronomy, and wellness. In the words of perfumer Christine Nagel, “Bergamot is a perfume in itself; it’s a daily fragrance you can wear on its own.” Its citrusy notes continue to evoke sophistication, whether found in high-end perfumes or culinary delights.

Culinary uses

The zest or peel of the fruit, appreciated for its aromatic qualities, is employed in both sweet and savory dishes. It serves as a flavor enhancer in baking, adding a distinctive citrus twist to desserts and confections. Additionally, Citrus bergamia-infused olive oil and liqueurs contribute to the creation of unique culinary delights and cocktails. While the fruit itself may be too bitter for direct consumption, its culinary presence adds depth and character to a range of dishes, making this citrus gem a prized ingredient in the hands of creative chefs and culinary enthusiasts.

“Bergamot, with its bitter-sweet symphony, is a maestro in the culinary orchestra. Its complex notes elevate dishes, adding a touch of intrigue and sophistication. In the realm of flavors, bergamot is not merely an ingredient; it’s a storyteller, weaving tales of citrusy vibrancy and aromatic elegance.” – Alain Ducasse, Michelin-starred Chef

Molecules and Their Composition

Bergamot oil, pressed from the rind of Citrus bergamia, is a complex mixture of aromatic compounds. The main constituents are limonene, which gives its bright citrus sparkle; linalool and linalyl acetate, which give its soft, lavender-like floral note; and smaller amounts of pinenes, which add a fresh, slightly piney lift.

Limonene: the Bright Citrus Sparkle

Limonene makes up a large part of bergamot oil and gives it its juicy, sparkling opening. It is very volatile, which is why bergamot shines at the top of a perfume and softens within the first hour or two. Limonene can oxidise in air, so we store our oils carefully and list it as an allergen where required.

Linalool and Linalyl Acetate: the Soft Floral Heart

Linalool and linalyl acetate give bergamot its gentle, floral, almost lavender-like smoothness, which is why it bridges so easily into florals. Linalool is studied in aromatherapy research for possible relaxing effects, but those findings are preliminary, and we make no health claims for it.

Citral: a Lemony Edge

Bergamot contains small amounts of citral, the lemony molecule also found in lemongrass and lemon. It adds a fresh, zesty edge. Citral can sensitise skin at higher levels, which is why it is regulated and listed as an allergen.

Safety Considerations and IFRA Guidelines:

Bergamot oil naturally contains bergapten, a compound that can make skin sensitive to sunlight. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) sets limits on bergapten in fragrance and skincare, and we formulate within them.

Today, discerning consumers are increasingly aware of the pitfalls in the industry today. Mass-produced fragrances, driven by economic considerations, often resort to synthetic, petroleum-derived versions of Citrus bergamia. The result is a departure from the authentic, natural essence that defines high-quality perfumery.

woman holding two bergamot with both hands

The importance of natural Bergamot

Amidst this landscape, brands like Prosody London emerge as vanguard of authenticity. Perfumes such as Lissom Linden, Jacinth Jonquil, Lantern Reed, Rose Rondeaux and Oud Octavo proudly declare their commitment to natural ingredients. By choosing all natural, consumers prioritize not only the aromatic experience but also the integrity of the ingredients used.

organic perfume with narcissus and blue hyacinth

Citrus bergamia, a versatile olfactory gem, gracefully navigates between floral and earthy realms, embodying a harmonious duality. In the embrace of Lissom Linden and Jacinth Jonquil, its citrusy brightness dances with florals, casting an ethereal femininity. Yet, with the grounding companionship of Lantern Reed and Oud octavo, bergamot’s essence takes on a masculine depth, seamlessly intertwining with earthy and woody notes. This chameleon-like quality renders bergamot a captivating component, transcending gender boundaries to create fragrances that evoke both strength and delicacy.

In a world where transparency in ingredients is paramount, selecting brands like Prosody London ensures that bergamot’s charm remains authentic and untainted. These perfumes become more than scents; they represent a commitment to genuine, natural olfactory experiences that transcend time and trends.